Friday, December 14, 2007

Beat The Blizzard!!

Alright team, this is it.

(how can this be IT?)

well it is. the next time i access a computer, it will be my lovely little dell that has been sitting on my bed patiently for over 4 months waiting for me. (i think i might start weeping when i see it. dont judge me)

i've done the math, and including the time i spent in israel and greece, i have spent almost exactly half of 2007 out of the country. thats a lot. and it has been...extraordinary. (as if a single word could do it justice). but now i am ready to come home.

and now to you, my home viewers: thank you for sharing this enormous adventure with me. thank you for your comments, your emails, your phone calls, your letters. i cant wait until i can share these stories with you in person!


So at this point it is just a question of beating the blizzard. so keep your fingers crossed team! i'll see you in new york ;)




“Valmiki the poet looked down into the water held cupped in his hand and saw into the past. Before he looked, he thought the world was sweet poison. Men seeming to be living in lies, not knowing where their ways went. The days seemed made of ignorance and doubt, and cast from deception and illusion . But in the water he saw—a dream, a chance, and a great adventure. Valmiki trusted the True and forgot the rest; he found the whole universe like a bright jewel set firm in forgiving and held fast by love.
Widen your heart. Abandon anger. Believe me, your few days are numbered; make one fast choice now and no second!”*


love,
a

Thursday, December 13, 2007

Ninja Turtle Namesakes and Other European Highlights

Day 2 in Roma: Vatican Museums
So, fittingly, the Pope has the richest collection of art in the world, and let me tell you, it is pretty spectacular. Just imagine being important enough in the world to give Raphael and call and say "hey dude, i need to decorate my dining room. can you come over and paint some frescos on the splendor of our lord for me? thanks" i spent 4 hours wandering around the endless halls, listening to my little audio guide and staring wide eyed at everything around me. And let me tell ya, i could've been in there a whole lot longer if the museum hadn't closed. sigh. oh well, if the Trevi Fountain does its job, i'll be back.

Day 3 in Roma: Howard Spodek and St. Peter
So daniel had his last final yesterday, and his professor, Howard Spodek, ya know, just happens to do his research in--you guessed it--Ahmedabad!! So HoSpo and I chatted for 20 minutes about the Gujarati elections that just happened, about Darpana, Mallika and Amma, about living in the A-Bad. It was wonderful. Then we headed over to the smallest nation in the world to give our regards to the Pope. St. Peter's is not to be believed. It is the worlds largest church, ie every other church in the world could fit inside it, and then some. All over rome you can see on the ruins that there are these holes cut out of the structures, because in the 106 years it took to build St. Peters (yes, 106!) materials were scavanged from anywhere and everywhere. You know what? worth it. Whats a couple of holes on the outside of the Colosseum? its incomplete anyway. The we climbed the 512(i think) stairs to the top of the dome, the highest point in rome, to take in the sights.

Day 4: The Colosseum and Palantine Hill (and the best Bruschette I have ever had)
World Wonder #2: awesome
The hill where Romulus and Remus founded the city: awesome
(i love ruins!)
Bruschettte with grilled zucchini and fresh buffalo mozzarella: awesome


A photographic update of my travels:



Me and Zoe in front of Notre Dame, Paris


Nutella and Bananna Crepes with Elizabeth and Zoe


Mediterranean Sea, Marseille


Me, Conner and Marc in Marseille


This is our relationship


With Charlotte across the Rhone from Avignon


Marc dressed us up in his fireman gear


ROMA

Crossing my fingers at the Trevi Fountain and hoping to someday make it back to Roma


Daniel and I climbed the dome at St. Peter's


Oh My God its the Colosseum! Whats gonna come out of that gate....?

Monday, December 10, 2007

How to Have a Boat Adventure: OR Land of Italian Truck Drivers

Step One: When making reservations to take a ferry from France to Italy (because isnt it romantic to add a boat to the epic adventure?), inadvertantly choose a company that ferries truck drivers from italy to france to spain, instead of the ferry full of back-packing college students like yourself.
Step Two: Dont speak either of the languages that are being spoken in these countries. (Note: you can kinda speak one of the languages: ie me and french)
Step Three: Be carrying a 50lb backpack, an Indian shopping bag that once contained a Sari and now contains an odd assortment of crap including an idol of a Hindu deity, incense, a water bottle, and a puppet that you made once upon a long time ago

At this point you are ready to board the ship. Advance to the welcome desk and receive your cardkey to your stateroom. Drop off assortment of luggage and return to the main deck for dinner. To continue your boat adventure at this point, it is advisable to:
1- befriend the nice Italian porter Christian who is going to let you use his cell phone tomorrow to call your friend in Rome to tell him that the boat is going to be at least 2 hours late, and you 2 hours late with it.
2- be recognized by a nice little old Italian truck driver named Guiseppe as "the girl with the huge backpack" who will then insist that "he doesnt really speak english but his friend does", at which point he will invite you to join them for dinner and share some of their italain wine.
3- chat with guiseppe's english speaking italian truck driver friends while you wait at the bar for the dining room to open. note that everyone else in the room is a)an italian truck driver OR b) an italian truck driver
4- Befriend Enzo, the bartender from Honduras, who--despite the fact that Honduras is nowhere near New York--claims western-hemisphere comraderie. Accept a gin and tonic on the house. chat about his life working on cruise ships, on the fact that yes, you are traveling alone and that no, this boat isnt full of backpacking college students at all, laugh at the absurdity of this situation
5- join your new italian friends for dinner of pasta, veggies and copious amounts of italian wine
6- head back to your cabin for a nice night's sleep being rocked by the sea

lather. rinse. repeat.

what an experience.

Suffice to say, I have made it to Rome, last stop on the grand travel adventure in one (comically absurd) piece. How wonderful it was to finally see Daniel waiting for me at the end of the train platform at Roma termini, after making the journey from the boat to the train station in civitavecchia with a french mother and daughter with whom i could communicate, but barely. AH travel travel travel.

Roma roma roma is bene bene bene. Today i wandered all over the place, snapping pictures galore of this and that...you know: ruins and fountains and churches and fountains and piazzas and churches and ruins and fountains--this nerd's fantasy come true!! tomorrow the Vatican, on wednesday the colloseum, on thrusday a day trip to florence perhaps? AH italy!

I am however, quite aware of the fact that yesterday marked the beginning of week 5 since departing from Darapana 9(unbelievable....i miss it all the time), which means i am now in week 5 of living out of a bag and i would be lying if i said it wasnt wearing on me. i can count on one hand the number of times i will have to don the backpack again, which makes me unceasingly joyous, and my heart twitters a bit each time i realize that i can say "next week i will be home"

next week i will be home

but before then
tonight i get to have dinner with annie! (fitting since the measure final concert is tonight...sing beautifully ladies! not like i have to tell you...you always do!)
so dont worry....i'm not counting the days just yet!

bueno sera!
a

Saturday, December 8, 2007

french keyboards....merde

apologies in advance for the mistakes made on this keyboard. in france a's are q's, w's are q's and m's are commas. oh la la.


SO

sorry for not having updated on the french adventure. we did have a computer in our hotel in paris but it was très (the beauty of french keyboards? accents!) slow, and there was always a long line. Alors, c'est la vie!

Paris was lovely lovely lovely. Zoe and I stayed in a cute little budget hotel in the 7th arrondisment, where we had our own little room with its own little sink, and the bathrooms were communial, which actually gave the place a nice campy feel. We spent some part of each day with our dear friends Anna Raff and Elizabeth Wachtel, who played excellent tour guides and showed us around town. On friday night Elizabeth took me to see Les Fables de la Fontaine at the Comedies Français (note: one cannot sat without a haughty voice and one's pinky in the air!), which was lovely even though i didnt understand a word of it (thats actually a lie...at one point one of the characters started singing in english...i understood that!) And on saturday night all 5 of us (me, conner, zoe, anna, elizabeth) went to see Andromaque by Racine at the Theatres Bouffes du Nord, which was even more fantastic and mades me very triste indeed that i cannot speak better french. Quel dommage!

Other highlights of the time there includes a bread/apple tart/cheese picnic at the Jardins Luxombourg, wine and cheese at the tour eiffel, free sunday spent at the centre pompidou and musee dorsay; bannana and nutella crepes, and those splendid long european dinners that somehow seem to last for hours and hours and hours over wine and laughter. I was very sad to leave paris.

The sadness, however; was tempered by an excitement to get to Avignon and finally meet Penny. For those of you who dont know, Penny was my sister's host mum when she first visted france the summer qfter her sophomore year in highschool. A british ex-pat, penny has lived most of her life in the south of france, raising her 3 kids and riding horses. She and wendy got on so well that last fall when wendy was studying in nantes she spent a few weekends visiting penny in avignon. so, i figured it was only right, since penny has become like family, to meet her myself. Wendy did not lie---she is every bit as wonderful as she ever sounded!

late mornings, a visit to the mediterranean in Marseille, to the Palais de Papes in the old walled city of Avignon, dinners with penny in her living room, meeting the french fireman Marc who "proposed" to my sister last year..these are all highlights of the past 3 days. Mostly I was just thrilled to meet Penny and her daughter Charlotte, both of whom already felt like part of my family, being such a huge part of my sisters life. It was very cool for me to be in a place that is so important to Wendy, and made me miss her even more.

Which brings me to here, now, qt qn internet cafe in Toulon, (that it took me over an hour to find!) wasting time before my boat leaves for Italy tonight. It was very strange saying goodbye to Conner on the train yesterday....excepting the 2 weeks he was in China i have seen that kid every day for the past 4 months. Just another signal that my time a-journeying is coming to an end.

SO, its one more week of adventures and then? christmas, lizzie, hamburgers and strawberry champqgne with my parents, a visit to vassar,the dresden dolls on new years with kendra, snow....

yea, i'm ready for those things!

a bientot! and next time from rome!!!


bisous
a

Wednesday, November 28, 2007

A [not so] foggy day in Londontown

This week has been nothing but absolute joy.

I would provide you with pictures of thanksgiving, but since to do that alex's computer would have to load ALL of my pictures from India, and since i dont want to do that to him, ill just tell you about it. OH let me tell you about it! From around 1pm to 9pm Catherine, Zoe, Conner and I cooked. Pies, veggies, cranberry sauce, lasagna (a zoe thanksgiving tradition that i think the pilgrims missed out on!), pies, turkey, pies, stuffing, and did i mention pies? oh it was a feast. and last i checked was still feeding kids over at camp zoe a week later!

since then the week has been a blissful combination of exploring london and hanging out with people i have so dearly missed. so, really, what could go wrong? nothing. nothing nothing nothing. on monday when zoe, alex and catherine had to go back to school (remember that thing that i havent actually done IN MONTHS...weird), i spent the day strolling from one end of london to the other, wandering aimlessly through the Tate Modern Art Museum, eating jacket potatoes in covent garden, and braving the terrifying world of Harrods. This is a wonderful city. i love walking everywhere, i love the crisp early winter air, i love wearing a jacket, i love the deep green scarf zoe brought with her to give me at the airport, i love getting a glass of wine and chatting at 3 in the afternoon, i love it all.

as for this tricky little thing called culture shock, i feel that shock is too strong a descriptor to place on what i am feeling. definitely not shock, but awareness. like how every time i fill up a glass from the sink i hesitate first. or how i keep catching myself eating only with my right hand. or how everything here costs almost a hundred times what it used to (thats the worst one!) but i think that the comfort of being with people who are so familiar in a culture that is so much more familiar has rendered the shock value much less potent. still, i do find myself talking about india to just about anyone who will listen, and find it incredibly strange looking back and realizing i have already been gone for a week. a lot of people i have met here have asked when i was going back, assuming i had come to london on holiday. thats odd too, as i wish i could give them a date that i was going back. but alas, only time will tell!

tomorrow i re-don the backpack-from-hell and board the eurostar for my maiden voyage through the chunnel and back to Paris, for which i am very excited! (despite growing tales of transit riots....ill keep you posted!) ah paris, land of wine and cheese. [i prepped for my adventures of only eating bread and cheese in france the other day at the Marlybone farmer's market, where i purchased a huge loaf of bread and a block of cheese and walked around the rest of the day eating it! its going to be a great few days!] Plus we are in paris for the first sunday of the month, which apparently means that all museums will be free. so watch out paris, because i will be running around like a mad woman seeing all of my favorite places again!



Me, Zoe, Conner and Craig in covent garden, marvelling at the enormous christmas decorations. they love their christmas here let me tell you!


cheers!
a

Thursday, November 22, 2007

always on a plane or a fast train

i'm sorry, i woke up where this morning? oh, ok london. and thats not in india? weird.

so 10 days traveling in india flew by incredibly fast, in a blur of rickshaws, trains, busses and airplanes. we crammed so much into so little time that i am honestly suprised we didnt break down [which isnt entirely true. on the train to agra our last day i developed on of those colds that is like a letter from your body asking you if you cold please stop getting less than 6 hours of sleep, waking up before 6 am, slapping a 50lb backpack on your back, boarding a crowded moving vehicle and going someplace new. unfortunately at that point i had to respectfully apologize to the body but inform it that i had a 7am flight to london the next day, but that maybe the next night?]

some highlights from the trip:

our cocohut in Agonda Beach, Goa


The cove that we explored (we made it all the way out to the rocks at the tip!)


The hut


the beer and fruit feast mentioned in my previous post

sunset at Colva Beach, Goa





Kanniyakumari, the southernmost tip of India



watching the water of the Bay of Bengal, the Indian Ocean and the Arabian Sea all meet at one point


Me and Co at the tip of India


Sipping coconut milk from a coconut that had just been cracked open

The Taj Mahal
(yes, it really is as incredible as you think it would be)










And from the taj mahal it was but a quick train, rickshaw, other rickshaw, plane ride to london, where a beautiful zoe and catherine met us at the airport. it was incredible to see them again after so long. sometimes you dont realize how much people are missing from your life until they are back in it. and so now i will leave you, and head off on a nice stroll through londontown to zoes flat where we will begin to cook the epic thanksgiving feast we have been looking forward to since...april?!

happy thanksgiving all!


love to india, america and back again
a

Saturday, November 17, 2007

livin the dream

with not too much time to write, i will consolidate the past week's travels into an image:

hut on the beach (yes, literally ON the beach. you want yards? fifty.) looking out at the arabian sea. the beach is nestled into a cove lined with palm trees and fishing boats. the sun is just starting to set. conner and i sit on our porch looking at a table covered in fruit (watermelon, papaya, pineapple, mosambi, chickoo, bananna) and beer. as the sun sets, conner "man-hands" marx breaks into these fruits with his leatherman, and we sit. and feast. on fruit and beer. on the beach. as the sun sinks into the sea.


refer to the title of this post